Zegna men’s clothing collection spring 2023

Who was the star of this Zegna show: location or collection? You could also ask that old chestnut about chicken or egg. Because the point that Alessandro Sartori made tonight, bringing us 120 km from Milan to Triver, the location of the mill founded by Ermenegildo Zegna in 1910, was that one depends on the other – and vice versa.

It was obvious that this attractive antique mill, whose machines were set on fire to rattle and howl impressively as we walked through it to the showroom on the roof, and whose brick chimney was in some way set up to emit a (probably harmless) black feather as models walked, he was a symbol of an industrial cause whose end result was Sartori’s collection. A few hundred people who work here and a few thousand more who work for Zegna around the world naturally invest in Sartori products and Zegna products, more widely, bringing home bacon.

A more interesting form of interrelationship arose from the consideration of the more distant background of the model, the roughly jagged lines of the richly forested mountains, beneath which the sun descended. Most of them are part of the 100 km square Oasi Zegna, a protected part of beautiful Piedmont that the founder started acquiring shortly after he founded the mill. Subsequent generations have since afforested and cultivated this place. Showing us a collection in the foreground whose sale allows for the cultivation of landscapes in the background, Sartori asked us to consider what, in fact, was the final product here.

If clothing was just a byproduct that allowed Oasi to flourish – and Zegna to continue its healthy first year as a listed company – they still had to be convincing to fulfill their function. Sartori expands his post-tailoring aesthetics every season. This time, this development included new blends of paper and linen used to create jackets with rough edges whose traditional silhouettes could almost be traced despite the removal of the collar and buttons. There was a strong emphasis on the hardened terrycloth produced in Zegna, which gave a textured substance for jackets and wide pants with the signature of Sartoria. For one-color shirts, super fine knitwear coated with a silicone finish was used. The new shoe of the season was an extension of triple-stitched sneakers, co-authored by Sartori and Daniel Bailey – I counted 13 pairs of these in the same shade of Zegna brown that were worn primarily across from me.

This collection contained a very clear color palette whose unconventional range was in line with Sartori’s unconventional approach to re-evaluating the tailoring process. The technically nylon raincoat was an attractive apricot color, a dessert wine shade, while a half-sleeved dolcevic shirt in that coated knitted fabric was delivered in yellow that looked extremely violent. His influence diminished as dusk passed into the darkness over Oasi Zegna.

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