Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2023 brought us new silhouettes, new accessories and finally brought us all back to our favorite fashion canons
Here are our selections of the best men’s clothing at Milan Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2023
Exposed midriffs of FendiSpring 2022 will be missed. Looking through the look of Sylvia Venturini’s latest collection, one could assume that it went beyond the framework of aesthetics that debuted last year. Such an assumption would be incorrect. Yes, the spring of 2023 was inspired by the American of the 90s, and – yes – there were no T-shirts this time, and yet the flabby triangles of leather protruding from under shirts, coats and blazers perfectly tied the new season to the final iteration. What stood out was the abundance of denim – or at least what looked like denim. A blue fur jacket with worn inserts and a long coat with exaggerated pockets made entirely of shaved mink (!) Are perfect examples. At the same time, what looked like khaki pants were, in fact, ultra-thin Nappa leather pants.
Plates, urns and espresso cups were not what one would otherwise expect from a menswear collection. For Donatella Versace, however, the seamless fusion of esteemed hypersexual fashion with the latest Versace Home novelties, as if in honor of the Salone di Mobile founded in 1961, represents a creative choice effortlessly and logically. Now to the clothes themselves. Donatella revived the legendary archival Versace print – a frozen in lava Pompeii death mask that appeared on sour-green shirts either alone or, more often, intertwined with favorite baroque motifs. We saw a lot of stripes in maroon and snake prints with neon-orange inserts. And among the flock of colors and innovations, there was still room to dedicate to Versace classics, such as gold baroque vests and a black satin suit with metal fittings that evoked an image of Duo Lipe from a women’s magazine for spring 2022.
In Etro’s menswear collection for spring 2023, Kean Etro has transformed its models into nymphs living at sea. It’s the hot boyish summer we’ve been longing for. Magnificent kimonos spread out on the floor flaunted with kaftans, low-cut cardigans and wide-open jackets, and each of them evokes a delicate, almost ritualistic poeticization. There were also satin boxers and a little speedo with tucked-in brocade blouses. Although fashion critics living on Twitter may not have favored such a style choice, this author found this look quite invigorating. Etro-favorite primrose was not dominant this season, shifting the torch to classic floral prints à la Russian Art nouveau.
It is always tempting to spot and choose small aesthetic choices that transfer the evolution of a given brand from one collection to another. Dissecting Prada’s men’s collection for spring 2023 is perhaps the closest that this author will ever become an evolutionary biologist. Since last year, we have seen shorts combined with striped knitwear, but the real novelty was djembal coats (sometimes covered under the skin) and shirts (sometimes without buttons). Another archetype of the runway was a man in a suit, of course – sleek, creepy, tasteful – made in the best tradition of the House.
Jeremy Scott’s first menswear show since his appointment as Moschin’s creative director has brought together all the things we associate with the house, namely: fluidity, color, twisting, and art. The collection for the spring of 2023 drew inspiration from the works of American artist Tomy Viramontes – colorful outlines of folds on hoodies, bomber jackets and denim vests give an unbreakable twist in men’s clothing – in the best possible way. The pièce de resistance was the look of a 12 – yellow denim jacket and trousers in style with a pleated latex skirt, gloves, calf boots and a baseball cap. Perfect for church Sunday.