Rick Owens menswear collection for spring 2023

Armageddon. Apocalypse. End of the day. This Rick Owens show was the end of the world. Or at least that’s what the three 2-meter-diameter balls set on fire by the technicians, slowly lifted by a crane high above us and then lowered to a chirp in the Palais de Tokyo fountain, were supposed to represent. Reflecting during the preliminary show, Owens said, “Fireballs are glowing suns, radiating across the sky and falling to the ground. But I did it over and over again because it happens over and over again. ”

He meant the human fear of our extinction — whether it was war, plague, or another generation-specific worst-case scenario. “I always try to convince myself that whatever is happening in the world right now – regardless of conflict, crisis or discomfort – it has happened before. And somehow goodness always prevailed over evil, because otherwise we wouldn’t be here now. “

Something else that happens on the replay, much less cataclysm, are the extraordinary shows of Rick Owens. This was different. His level is so high, and his language so clear — despite tribute acts — that sometimes you almost wish he had said just to cleanse our collective palate.

Promising for those looking for nonsense, this show came from one of the sweetest patterns in the book: It was a collection of what I did on vacation. Owens was in Egypt and named the collection Edfu, after the site of Ptolemy’s Temple of Horus. However, the only literal souvenirs of that trip on the runway today were three tulle looks from top to toe at the end, “because when I was there I wished I had a kaftan with a mosquito net.” Instead, his time in Egypt led Owens to think about how his cultural aesthetics have come to life again and again through the millennia since its inventors turned to dust.

Owens tweaked his codes today, introducing an expanded top version of his killer platform. Another novelty was technical clothing, delivered in baggy pants, shirts and inverted jackets cut from gray ripstop nylon impregnated with Dyneema, a fiber that Owens said was “obviously one of the strongest in the world. I find that encouraging. “

Several pieces are produced alongside Paradoxe, a Parisian label that removes excess or antique denim and then applies threads to other pieces of denim to create a rich texture effect. “It’s almost like lace,” Owens said. There was a single-breasted jersey in a purple topping made of pirarucu, a by-product of Amazon fish skin. Owens purists may be reluctant to embrace his rare expeditions in penetrating colors, but the eruption of yellow, pink, green, and purple here provided additional visual texture even outside of hot meteorites. The volume, especially on the shoulder, was on the rise again. For Rick Owens, this was just another doomsday.

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