Review of the men’s fashion show for spring 2023. Egonlab


Review of the men’s fashion show Egonlab spring 2023

Down the Rabbit Hole

By Mark Wittmer

Egonlab goes through the glass with its collection for spring 2023, introducing a coating of sparkling psychedelia into their distinctive taste of high punk urban glamorous style. Titled wonderland the collection sees the inaugural project of young creative director duo Florentino Glemarec and Kevin Nompeix impressively explaining their key strengths while making the somewhat less successful (though still entertaining and certainly market-driven) impetus to incorporate new cultural and aesthetic references into their opus.

Despite the clarity of the delicacy before the show that greeted attendees outside the hall in the upper rooms of the Palais de Tokyo – a pink chocolate fountain with dough vulvae and dipping penises – the show’s sexuality, while ubiquitous, was relatively restrained. The tendency of the designer duo towards references to twisting and club style in the style of Berghain is interspersed with excellent tailoring and a refined sense of the craft. Thigh boots and leather panties met with lustfully elegant shiny coats; carved denim jackets and skirts (they relied on the popularity of these Miu Miu skirts) met with knitwear with an intricate pattern or sequins.

The mushrooms are big now, and the show is Alice– the reference to the title and graphic work paid an unwavering honor to the most psychoactive of the colorful inhabitants of the mushroom kingdom, such as the visual icon of the amanita muscaria. While these colorfully printed pieces looked like, in a way, a departure from the rest of the collection, the sense of connectedness matched the festival-ready hedonism, the frugal shop of his target neo-hippie demographics. This themed image also makes an interactive connection with his own version of the metaverse, Egonimati, which was launched last season alongside that collection.

But balancing this intoxicating change of direction were the powerful details and accessories that ran through the entire collection, especially the belt ring that took the place of the bags and used to hold the coat, another clever suggestion of layered and modular style options.

We saw a similar piece by Jonathan Anderson in Loewe a few years ago, but we are happy to see that Egonlab has reintroduced the idea, and it especially fits into this collection.

Other thoughtfully designed moments included patchwork denim and leather ensemble, ear holder (or anything else for smoking) and chunky stone necklaces and belts. The brand’s continued commitment and celebration of gender fluidity is also to be commended.

Delivering a collection that was thoughtful, playful and mostly cohesive – apart from perhaps unusual digressions into obvious repetitions of pop art psychedelia – the collection confirms Egonlab as one of the most exciting young brands on the scene. As they continue to perfect their already impressive design moves, we hope that the duo will also be able to learn new ways to incorporate their impressively ambitious conceptual aspirations into their collections in more detail.


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