Men’s S / S at Milan Fashion Week 2023: Fendi do Prade

The men’s edition of Milan Fashion Week returns this season with an applause, after a muted January outing due to the arrival of the Omicron variant. Under the hot Milan sun, city brands have come to life with offers for S / S 2023 that channel the runaway mood and suggest a multitude of ways to dress for the season ahead. Among them, the juxtaposition of archetypal menswear in reissues of Prada, Dolce & Gabbana noughties, and the long-awaited debut of JW Anderson in Milan. Here, in the current report, is the best of the men’s S / S2023 at Milan Fashion Week, as it happens.

The best of the men’s S / S fashion week in Milan 2023

DSquared2

Dean and Dan Caten were looking for inspiration for their latest collection towards the surfer, combining the archetype with their own brand of glamor and glitter. Eclectic layering – as if different garments were picked up on trips around the world – was a trademark of the collection, whether it was a colorful sarong tied over jeans with nails, a Honda bike jacket with shorts and flip-flops or a colorful array of sweaters tied around the waist (the prints were equally eclectic, from turtles with a block print to various New Age motifs). Elsewhere, the duo gave an ode to musician Bob Marley, uniting with the late artist’s foundation, and his face was used as a motif over outerwear, bags and T-shirts – the latter the duo wore to pay homage to barefoot bows.

1017 Alyx 9SM

The neglected Franco Sciarino pool served as the backdrop for Matthew Williams ’latest collection for the 1017 Alyx 9SM. In the late afternoon heat, it was a location that seemed appropriate for the collection where the bare look of the skin and the shortened silhouettes suggested a high summer mood. The hallmarks of Williams’ work on this label remain in this second Milan Fashion Week: sharp-cut blazers and guillotines in optical white, cropped tops and dresses, and visor-like sunglasses encapsulated the designer’s clean, industrial approach to cutting and shaping. A range of more transparent looks – dresses with an asymmetrical hem, mini dresses that wrapped around the body or could be adjusted with waves of buttons on the button – gave a sensual contrast. Williams has also chosen the opportunity to present his latest collaboration with Nike, the MMW Zoom 5, a perforated ergonomic slide with silver flashes on the sole – no doubt there will soon be a pool near you.

Emporio Armani

Giorgio Armani noted that this season he was thinking about the idea of ​​lightness, not only in the texture of the collection, but also in the concept of wardrobe that includes freedom of dress for the summer months – ‘pure joy of dressing for the season: choosing clothes and accessories to wear without thinking too much’. Lightness, therefore, defined the seasonal offer, conveyed by the riffs on the shirt, an item of clothing that Armani said was the link of the season (often the shirts and pants were cut from the same fabrics). The desire was to create pieces that barely touch the skin – relaxed tunics, unstructured tailoring, details that include ties, slits, openings and cuts – that allow the body to breathe. Around the exhibition space in the Armani / Theater was a woven motif reminiscent of a basket; Armani pointed out that Emporio sees it as a ‘tank of opportunity’, which here provides a range of carefree prospects for the warmest months of the year. Or, a ‘full basket of summer’, as the house described it.

Dolce gabbana

A trip to the Dolce & Gabbana archive gave the collection a starting point where clothing items from the brand’s history returned to the runway – redesigned from 1990 to 2000, with contemporary looks designed in the same spirit (the collection is called ‘Reissue’) . As such, the collection had a sense of rupture reminiscent of the aforementioned periods: cargo pants cut to the knees and worn with scanty white ribbed vests, a T-shirt with a Virgin Mary print and streaked with holes, denim washed, bleached and sewn, or left untreated around its edges . The tailoring provided a sleek contrast – whether it was different riffs on a tuxedo jacket or blazer cut from lace or jacquard – while the D&G brand underwear at the waist had a special taste in the 1990s, complementing the vision of a season where the past and present intertwine.

Fendi

Exploring freedom was also on the agenda in Fendi, ‘an eternal sense of freedom to play while rediscovering the luxury of free time’, as described by Silvia Venturini Fendi. Double F logo of the house facing above the exhibition space; his ‘upside down and inside’ design used a metaphor for the look of the collection, defined by a sense of contrast, juxtaposition and play (‘boundless exploration of style on a foothold between nostalgia and innovation’). In particular, the ‘reality and fantasy’ of denim seemed definite for the season, whether it was cut into spacious silhouettes inspired by work clothes, a worn-out version of Fendi Baguette denim or appearing as a trompe l’oeil print throughout. Elsewhere, it was an exploration of everyday men’s clothing – familiar, re-imagined – intertwined with moments of play that became Venturini Fendi’s calling cards, from a cow print print to a bucket hat cut across their tops.

Versace

High-octane fashion has always been Donatele Versace’s fashion style; for her collection S / S 2023, which marked her return to menswear week, she inserted it into a collection that promised ‘classicism energized’. As such, the archival imprint depicting Pompey’s death masks was the starting point of the collection, while models – which included the sons of the pantheon of legendary Versace supers, from Helena Christensen to Angela Lindvall – grabbed urns in their hands as if wandering. far with the classic treasure (others had miniature Versace plates hanging from the belt). ‘Contrast is everything to me, it makes you think and feel,’ said the designer of the collection, communicating opposing silhouettes: light, oversized tailoring and breathable silk shirts versus scanty body-level vests cut across the back.

Etro

Etro’s men’s clothing collection S / S 2023 marked the last outing for Keana Etra after the announcement that Italian designer Marco de Vincenzo will take over the position of creative director this September (for now, De Vincenzo has been watching from the front row). Prior to the show, each participant was read a song over the phone instead of a physical call; here the collection relied on what the notes described as the power of poetry to conjure up the ‘utopian’. In practice, this meant a collection that was both poetic and sensual: raised kaftans as feathers with recognizable prints of the house and relaxed tailoring were met with scanty bathing suits and shortened mini shorts. It was a compelling offer for this season – especially desirable in the heat of the 30s over the weekend – and a fitting farewell for the designer who has defined Etro menswear for more than two decades.

Prada

The paper-and-white set, which evokes the walls of the house, full of huge windows and sharply folded curtains, provided the backdrop for the latest collection by Miuccia Prada and Rafa Simons. ). The collection itself, called ‘Prada Choices’, focused on the act of curating one’s own style – ‘juxtaposition of elements and clothing, creating impressions, creating style’.

As such, the designers looked to archetypal menswear – among them a suit and a mackintosh jacket – and fabrics such as denim and leather. They noted that the energy of the collection comes from shifts and juxtapositions; a classic suit stood next to a mini leather short and matching vest, for example, and discreet four-button coats next to a double denim washed stone. ‘Clothing items are classic, but their combination is the opposite, which makes them exciting and new,’ Simons said in a pre-prepared quote. Miuccia Prada added: “So much of what is the basis is actually a conceptual choice – a coat, jeans, a suit. They look simple, but they are the result of a process … It is a combination of a long process of design and decision, and then instinct. It’s a matter of style. ‘

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