It’s a Wednesday morning on the headquarters of 25-year-old modern girls’s line Tibi, and every little thing is enterprise as regular. The model’s tall, ashy-blonde founder, Amy Smilovic, is poring over a rack of garments along with her type director, Sarah Brody. They’re about to depart on a visit to Dubai, the place Smilovic will host styling periods and shoot content material for retail companions within the area.
Smilovic is clad in precisely the type of minimal, subtle look that Tibi’s devotees love: a taupe silk shirt tucked into tonal trousers. She provides a virtually equivalent shirt and pants to the rail, the place they be part of an oversize brown suede bomber, wide-leg blue denims, and a lavender sweater. As soon as that’s settled, she and Brody rush into Smilovic’s workplace to host the model’s semiweekly Instagram Reside, a stream-of-consciousness styling chat that runs for about an hour.
It’s all par for the course for a model that’s hitting its quarter-century milestone. However most modern labels by no means make it that far. If you happen to look on the listing of designers who confirmed alongside Tibi throughout New York Style Week in 2008—to choose a yr at random—it reads like an in memoriam of names lengthy gone: DooRi, Abaete, Behnaz Sarapfour, Erin Fetherston, Richard Chai, L.A.M.B. Even the manufacturers that survived previous the last decade mark did not have a simple time of it. Milly, which might have stood subsequent to Tibi in shops, hit its stride dressing Michelle Obama, solely to half methods with founder Michelle Smith in 2019. Rebecca Taylor, one other female midpriced label, noticed its founder give up that very same yr. You may clarify these goodbyes as part of trend’s life cycle, however that’s not totally correct. In contrast to these manufacturers, who stored kind of the identical aesthetic since their founding, Tibi took a tough pivot and developed with the occasions. That transfer might have been its saving grace.
Earlier than Tibi existed in its present incarnation of unfussy separates, it was a wildly completely different model. In 1997, Smilovic’s husband relocated to Hong Kong for his job at American Categorical, and he or she adopted. Whereas there, she met one other American expat, Olivia Jones. The 2 bonded over how onerous it was to seek out acceptable clothes for his or her new tropical life, particularly since socializing principally passed off open air.
“[Olivia] launched me to a neighborhood retailer that had these nice Indonesian textiles. They impressed us to go to Jakarta and meet with a neighborhood prints provider. We stayed at his home for every week and developed variations in brilliant colours that that they had by no means used earlier than together,” Smilovic defined. And so their first capsule assortment of 5 items—initially named Tibi Hyland, after Jones’s grandmother—was born.
Hong Kong–primarily based retailer Lane Crawford instantly picked up the model. “[At the time] trend was all a couple of below-the-knee slipdress and a female cardigan. The thought of voyage was additionally enormous. Amy’s line hit all the weather, plus she was in Hong Kong, so she was in a position to custom-make what I wanted,” says Sarah Rutson, who served as senior purchaser for the division retailer.
Smilovic and Jones had inadvertently tapped into an rising development with their assortment. The late ’90s and early aughts marked the revival of Lilly Pulitzer. Tom Ford featured daring prints for his Spring 1999 assortment for Gucci, and Michael Kors did an ode to Lilly for his Spring 2000 assortment. The model Tocca launched too, incomes popularity of its female, wanderlust-inspired attire.
Tibi provided an identical look: pattern-heavy, tropics-inspired types that suited preppy jet-setters. Quickly Vogue, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Neiman Marcus all got here calling. Throughout the first yr, Jones made an amicable exit and Smilovic took over the enterprise, dropping the Hyland and maintaining Tibi.
However whereas Tibi might need been chugging alongside efficiently as a model, its core aesthetic of brilliant, colourful prints by no means felt fairly proper to Smilovic. She’d chosen it, however she quickly started to really feel pigeonholed. One second that hinted towards her unhappiness was when InStyle swung by her Connecticut residence for a photograph shoot. When the group noticed her area, which was adorned in grays, lotions, and white, they deemed it unacceptable.
“They got here to my home, they usually’re like, Oh no, this isn’t a Tibi home. So that they actually introduced in a semitruck [full of decor], like a Diane von Furstenberg rug and printed pillows, to fully restyle my home,” Smilovic recollects.
“If I did an interview, I’d be dressed like the way in which I’m proper now, in minimalist neutrals. After which they might say, Nicely, now we have to take your image. And I must placed on my Tibi designs like a dressing up,” Smilovic says. When she was a baby in Georgia, her psychologist father was all the time urging her to reside life to the fullest. If designing this colourful, wacky model didn’t make her completely satisfied, then what would?
It took an opportunity assembly at Web-a-Porter to push her to make a change. “I used to be sporting a grey high that we had dropped from the road and a black full skirt, one other piece we didn’t produce,” she recollects—styled with an oversize Stella McCartney bomber and Phoebe Philo–period Celine heels. The customer remarked how stylish the ensemble was and the way complicated it was for Smilovic to be peddling a line that had little to do along with her private type. That is when she knew it was time for a drastic shift.
In 2010, Smilovic and head of design Traci Bui-Amar determined to quietly unload their printed items beneath a unique identify and rebrand the corporate. In some ways, this was coming full circle, as again in 1997, when she first moved to Hong Kong, Smilovic had envisioned launching a trend model impressed by ’90s minimalist icons like Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, and Helmut Lang. For Resort 2012, which debuted in 2011, Tibi shocked onlookers with a 13-look assortment resembling the model as we all know it immediately.
Deciding she wanted to make an even bigger splash, Smilovic made a prescient alternative for her Spring 2012 runway assortment, tapping Swedish trend blogger Elin Kling (who’s now founding father of the cool-girl model Totême) to type and street-style mainstay Julia Sarr-Jamois (who’s now British Vogue’s trend director) to star in marketing campaign imagery. It was an indication that the period of prints was lifeless and buried, ushering in a brand new period of social-media-friendly clothes.
“It was a dream present: clear, sharp, and every little thing I liked,” recollects Smilovic. Future exhibits boasted the likes of Solange Knowles and Jessica Williams within the entrance row, to not point out each main influencer of the period—individuals like Chriselle Lim and Natalie Joos. A certain signal the revival was working: Photographers like Tyler Joe and Tommy Ton started ready outdoors the exhibits within the hope of capturing the right street-style shot.
“The client was prepared for that change,” says Caroline Maguire, trend director at Shopbop, “and Amy listened to that.”
Few manufacturers try that type of swap in route (Mara Hoffman additionally involves thoughts.) Even in the event you win over the style varieties, you continue to danger alienating prospects and retailers. Nevertheless it turned out to be the enterprise determination that will take Tibi into the brand new decade.
“The stronger, extra minimalist perspective is what sparked me to go see it a decade in the past,” says Stacy Smallwood, the founding father of Hampden Clothes, a luxurious boutique chain in Charleston. Smallwood has been carrying the model since its pivot and credit its long-lasting attraction to its potential to resist the whims of trend. “Its aesthetic means that you can simply incorporate and construct upon your wardrobe. Plus, the items by no means really feel too stylish,” she explains.
Within the early 2010s, designer Phoebe Philo dominated the style panorama along with her arty, minimalist, women-dressing-for-women aesthetic at Celine. Tibi’s designs are sometimes in comparison with previous Celine—although after all the value is much more pleasant. Smilovic is conscious of the comparisons and takes them as a praise: “If you happen to really perceive the ladies who’ve this sure mindset, it’s going to be no shock that we’re having sure sensibilities.”
“Tibi lovers are sturdy, unbiased, and unafraid to take dangers,” provides Shopbop’s Maguire. “They make an artwork of balancing their skilled and private lives whereas being assured of their private type.”
The ladies Maguire refers to are a loyal bunch, and Janka Dubakova is one in every of them. By day, she’s a San Francisco–primarily based tax accountant at a hedge fund, however in her off-hours she runs Tibi Followers, a small Instagram and Fb account that hyperlinks lovers of the model. The thought got here to her in Could 2021 after she was unable to discover a costume on resale platforms that she’d missed out on shopping for the primary time round. “It was crickets at first, however now it has grown into such an incredible neighborhood. Tibi attracts a gaggle of fascinating, achieved, and considerate girls (and a few males) from all all over the world. Chatting trend (and extra) has been a brilliant gentle throughout these unsure occasions,” she says.
This similar sense of neighborhood obtained Smilovic by way of the pandemic. 2020 turned out to be what she’s described as “trend’s summer season from hell,” because the retail business crumbled, pandemic-related diseases and deaths rose, and protesters referred to as for social justice throughout a polarized nation. Within the midst of this, no one was searching for polished day-to-night outfits. Value-cutting measures have been inevitable (the model laid off 44 individuals and shrank salaries), however Smilovic coped by doubling down on her neighborhood, reconnecting with them through social media (that’s how the IG Lives began), and putting religion, as soon as once more, in her instincts.
Tibi started doing IG Lives, dubbed “Model Class,” in 2020, they usually have been successful. Viewership ranges from a whole lot to hundreds of individuals at any given time, however the concept stays the identical: sensible styling recommendation blended in with a little bit of life knowledge.
Which brings us again to our typical Wednesday. The theme of the IG Reside is “discovering your type.” Smilovic and Brody focus on the important thing adjectives every would use to explain her type, whereas viewers chime in with their very own. Three feminine employees members cycle by way of 4 to 5 outfits throughout the hour, noting what measurement they’re sporting in order that viewers get a way of what the garments seem like on nonmodel our bodies. One other employees member manages the feedback, that are all optimistic. Unsurprisingly, the featured merchandise are inclined to promote out. (Given the model’s reputation on social media, Tibi can be dipping a toe into TikTok, the higher to attach with a brand new viewers.)
Throughout 2020, Smilovic additionally doubled down on Tibi’s model id. If you happen to go to the positioning, there’s a complete part dedicated to what she calls “The Artistic Pragmatist”: a lady with a singular, extremely private sense of fashion who by no means sacrifices perform for trend and is fascinated by extra than simply what she’s sporting. The implication is that Tibi stays an oasis of grown-up girl clothes, the type of stuff you may really put on to the workplace—at the same time as the style winds shift towards a return to a youthful, wilder Y2K type.
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However after all, in the identical method Smilovic tailored to the minimalist 2010s, she acknowledges there are elements of our present aughts fascination that make sense for her model. A triangular bandeau high nods to the going-out tops of that period, whereas denims have develop into baggier, with low-slung waistlines. “We’re nonetheless involved with modernity and what’s present. I don’t wish to present up at a celebration the place everyone seems to be of their Y2K Paris Hilton apparel and seem like I’m the chaperone. I nonetheless wish to really feel like my finest self,” she says.
After 25 years, what’s subsequent? Smilovic just isn’t totally certain. There shall be celebrations all through this yr (if we’re being formal, March 12 is when Tibi was established), however she paused runway exhibits in 2020, and he or she’s nonetheless undecided if she’ll deliver them again. A plan of succession can be within the works, as a result of sooner or later within the distant future, she must let go of the label she constructed.
For now, although, issues are good. “The model is in the very best place it is ever been in 25 years,” she says, “as a result of I do know for sure that it means one thing to individuals.”