Givenchy models walk the water at Paris Fashion Week

PARIS — For the first big collection of the menswear season of Paris Fashion Week, Givenchy models walked on water.

A huge fountain filled with milky white water and sparkling fog in the Ecole Militaire courtyard served as a liquid runway on which models, often bare-chested and in waterproof footwear, trampled and splashed toward the blinding light.

Matthew M. Williams obviously wanted to make a sensation in his first solo menswear show since he was named 2020. But has the American designer dived deep enough?

Here are some highlights from the spring-summer 2023 show on Wednesday:

GIVENCHY IS SHALLY SPRAYED

This was a modern Givenchy by Audrey Hepburn just by name. Williams ’vision is urban, imbued with sport and diminished.

The American designer, a former collaborator of Lady Gaga and Kanye West, has once again brought his street atmosphere to the runway of high Paris. The muse this season was the style of Jamaican reggae singer Alkaline, who worked on the show’s soundtrack.

These looks are defined by long and loose silhouettes, frayed edges, thick chains and scary face masks.

Observations from Williams’ past have provoked many views. The bomber jackets with laser-cut house logos that opened the show were inspired by those the designer admired in Harlem, New York. Elsewhere, California street styles are mixed with preppy styles, such as ripped tailored pants.

Williams said of his backstage collection that “everything is grounded in reality. I could see the guy in every look on the street – for me it’s a really modern approach. “

But sometimes this everyday atmosphere betrayed the collection. For example, one simple pink suit, open on a bare chest with a gold chain, did not seem to be a sufficiently developed idea for a high fashion runway.

Still, the tailoring was strong throughout – as expected for the house – for example in one wide, black tailored coat from the 80s that cut a fine shape.

DIOR’S CRUISE SPA

Celebrating Haute Couture Week, Dior revives a 19th-century floating spa that existed on an elegant barge on the Pont-Neuf Bridge.

The spa, called Bains de la Samaritaine, was known as the most luxurious in Western Europe at the time and as the mother of modern luxury spas.

This season, Dior is teaming up with Cheval Blanc Paris to create its own vision of a cruise spa, with a capacity for five passengers in four suites for a two-hour trip across the Seine. It will run from June 29 to July 13.

The boat’s décor includes rattan furniture and parasols in blue toile de jouy, a Dior pattern reinterpreted by current designer Maria Grazia Chiuri,

BLUE MARBLE IS RELEASED

Streetwear and tailoring collided in the melting pot of designer Anthony Alvarez’s show, which counts Justin Bieber among his clients.

Alvarez is the one to watch – with its fashion repertoire for the MTV generation that mixes travel with urban clothing and bright colors that are stunning.

For spring-summer, he stepped up psychedelia to create a dazzling, relaxed collection. Colorful wide pants, with BLUEMARBLE printed over, met with a sour yellow-green coat with a marble texture. The look of the pajama pants from the 80’s was responsible for one of the best looks in the collection, in pearl white. He came among the wide jeans with four-leaf clover.

But this show also came from the rich heritage of designers. Alvarez was born in New York City with a mix of Filipino, Spanish, French and Italian roots. The collection celebrated this world vision. Ethnic shirts mixed with silk university bombers and embroidered leopard blouses that looked ready for a safari and rock concert.

The brand name itself is global – borrowed from the cult photograph of the Earth taken in 1972 by the crew of Apollo 17.

STUDIES GO BY TRAIN

Design triumvirate Jose Lamali, Jeremie Egry and Aurelien Arbet in Etudes used an abandoned railway on the outskirts of Paris as an environment – and a creative springboard – to exhibit on an urban theme.

It was the first in an upcoming series of location-specific shows, which use the location or environment as inspiration for the design. Paris was the logical starting point for this French brand – although “lesser known Paris” here was what the house said it was channeling. From the platform, guests watched the Petite Ceinture, or Little Belt, a thirty-kilometer trail that circled the city.

Worn-out white jeans, denim denim, hiking boots, industrial-looking baseball caps, water heaters and work aprons mixed with utilitarian buckles and belts. They seemed to evoke the disenfranchised youth of the 1990s, who may have wandered the abandoned railroads.

These urban references fit nicely into the tailoring. Relaxed tailored jackets, boxy silhouettes from the 80s, were above matching trousers that were cut in a funky way below the knee, leading to military-style boots.

BIANCA SAUNDERS IS IN SECOND PARIS

One of the few menswear designers to be awarded the Andaman Awards, British designer Bianca Saunders was in a confident mood on Wednesday in a skilled second year show hosted by her native London.

Saunders, who has Caribbean roots, quickly became famous after graduating from Central Saint Martin’s a few years ago. Minimalism was at the heart of this display.

Too many unusual details such as collars and pockets creatively turned into an art form, sometimes in a look that was on the verge of space age. One silver glam rock suit with disinfected elastic pumps evoked a pandemic.

Elsewhere, medieval rustic woolen underwear, which looked pretty Vivienne Westwood, was typical of her seemingly light trendy touch.

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