Cathy Horyn’s Vogue Week Evaluate: Marni and Tommy Hilfiger

Picture-Illustration: The Reduce. Images: Hanna Tveite; Getty Photographs, Courtesy of Marni

It’s not outstanding {that a} European designer determined to indicate in New York. Alexander McQueen did it; so did Karl Lagerfeld and Riccardo Tisci. And properly earlier than the pandemic grounded everybody, Europeans have been taking their collections on the street, to locations like Rio de Janeiro and Shanghai.

However in all these instances, the designer and the model primarily functioned as colonialists, spreading their pursuits on a international market. There was no sense that they bought something — or, extra arrogantly, anticipated to realize something — from publicity to the native scene. The opposite night time, to mark the twenty fifth anniversary of the baguette bag, Fendi did a pleasant riff on the form of hectic high-low model that Intercourse and the Metropolis (and its designer, Patricia Discipline) captured within the late ’90s. Nonetheless, it didn’t give us a brand new technique to see New York.

Francesco Risso did, nevertheless. Risso is the 39-year-old artistic director of Marni. On Saturday night time, below the Manhattan Bridge in Brooklyn, he introduced a unprecedented assortment that confirmed he has been paying shut consideration to how younger folks right here costume. They don’t have any inhibition about displaying the sexual elements of their our bodies, no less than their form. From the primary outfit — a mini tank costume in fiery crimson jersey reduce low on the edges — the garments have been conspicuously extra physique aware than something he has accomplished beforehand for the Milan model. His final two collections, for instance, have been a helter-skelter mixture of oversize tailoring, droopy striped knits, and tacky attire and coats repurposed from classic types. The darkish ambiance and styling of each exhibits instructed that Risso was yet one more designer who imagined the world on the rocks.

Marni.
Picture: Courtesy of Marni

This time he didn’t enable himself such a straightforward out. The one prop within the present was the String Orchestra of Brooklyn, wearing orange sacks and divided by the runway into two teams. They performed a piece by Risso’s long-time collaborator Dev Hynes, with Risso himself on a cello. A lot of the present’s vibration, although, got here from the garments. Other than some usually sized blazers and coats in strong hues of satin or leather-based, a lot of the seems have been in jersey and knits, interspersed with some distinctive hand-colored denims. The opening crimson slip was adopted by types that appeared to peel down from the waist, leaving a naked midriff, and others in jersey the place the lengthy sleeves looped right down to, and have been connected to, the hem. There have been bra tops, cropped tees, and tiny shorts in semi-transparent knits. And virtually every little thing within the first half of the present was accomplished within the intense shades of sundown, with variations of a circle as the principle motif. The tempo modified within the second half with blues, greens, and purple, together with items in multihued velvet, a cropped blue knitted polo shirt completed with a lattice hem of silver metallic, and two superb jersey columns in a painterly mix of colours and which used the erotic circles, with one as a big opening to reveal flesh.

Risso, who has apparently made quite a few journeys right here for the reason that borders reopened, should have been really impressed. Not solely is that this assortment probably the most coherent he has accomplished for Marni, it’s additionally probably the most directional — mainly as a result of it targeted so constantly on the physique. And I don’t imply physique variety right here; I imply the physique as the principle place to begin and driver as trend.

Eckhaus Latta
Picture: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD by way of Getty Photographs

The designers Michael Eckhaus and Zoe Latta, of the ever-indie label Eckhaus Latta, and Elena Velez have been of an identical thoughts, if on a smaller scale. There’s nothing that Eckhaus Latta can do, I’m satisfied, that doesn’t look cool on all physique varieties and ages. The spotlight of its satisfying present, in an East Village backyard, have been spare tops knitted from a foil yarn (they seem like leather-based) and proven with pants or a filmy, flesh-tone skirt. Additionally distinctive have been subtly coloured knits drawn from art work of the late Matthew Grinnell, a pal of Latta’s, and trousers in an uneven, cobalt-blue examine; the modern-looking material is definitely an outdated jacquard denim.

Elena Velez.
Picture: George Chinsee/WWD by way of Getty Photographs

Velez’s revealing, virtually broken-looking attire in linen and cotton — this season with an enormous S&M aspect — appeared to rage for freedom in each sense. I applaud her. Not solely does Velez have a transparent sensibility, in distinction to many younger designers, however she has a style for danger — and trend perpetually wants danger. What she lacks, although, is a better sense of finesse with craft. Her designs would come off higher if she labored extra on the development. Because it was, her assortment — introduced poorly in a dimly lit room — appeared stalled. Its evolution will come from the make. Take a web page from Risso.

Victor Glemaud
Picture: George Chinsee/WWD by way of Getty Photographs

Victor Glemaud’s present, below a sunny sky on the curler rink at Rockefeller Heart, was pure delight — and metaphor for not agonizing over garments. His slinky and plain attire, capes, catsuits, and bathing fits (new for him) got here in strong shades of pink and leopard print, in addition to black and white. Glemaud now fills a void for unfussy but attractive American sportswear.

Altuzarra
Picture: Courtesy of Altuzarra

No different surprises or severe flops occurred over the weekend. Joseph Altuzarra declared he was doing “radical performance” — which merely meant he confirmed numerous high quality, light-weight parkas layered over cotton separates, some fresh-looking washed-denim jackets that jogged my memory a little bit of early males’s waistcoats, and funky cotton-print oversize shirts with matching minis. At Khaite, Catherine Holstein’s garments appeared ponderously extra winter than spring. Nonetheless, she supplied an on-brand collection of fitted black leather-based types and a few novel-looking python prints, for off-the-shoulder attire and a trench.

Tommy Hilfiger
Picture: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD by way of Getty Photographs

In an interview earlier than his present on Sunday night time, on the Brooklyn waterfront, Tommy Hilfiger used the phrase “disruptive” to convey the forces — gender, inclusivity, celeb, a backstage on view to visitors as they arrived — that will come collectively.

Tommy Hilfiger and Richard Quinn’s capsule.
Picture: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD by way of Getty Photographs

He didn’t say rain. As visitors, together with Kardashians and Jenners, Kate Moss, and John Legend, huddled below wimpy umbrellas or caught to their neighbors’ plastic rain ponchos (handed out by the cheerful workers), Hilfiger despatched out a barrage of up to date prep classics, in addition to a zesty capsule group by the London designer Richard Quinn. The oversize parkas and rugby shirts (for this fall) are proper for the second however clearly not forward of the physique curve. I had the sensation of eager to shed all of it, although perhaps it was simply my rain poncho, which I left in a bin on the Bedford Avenue station earlier than catching the L.

Leave a Comment