Milan Men’s Fashion Week is underway, but with some impressive outings by Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada, which attracted several celebrities sitting in the front row.
With strong recognition to the archives, each brand presented shows for the spring / summer of 2023 that are resolutely in the present, but rework many familiar elements for a new, younger audience.
Created in a continuous partnership of Miuccia Prada and Rafa Simons, this show opened with sharp, single-breasted suits that gave way to a collection that mixes modern and retro.
Horizontal striped sweaters have appeared, as well as black leather shorts which, with a double zipper on the front, were as vague as the 1980s. The historical influence emerged as gingham, now transformed into light men’s coats stacked over gaberdin jackets and the same shorts, or as shirts worn under longer leather coats.
It was a great quartet of washed-up denim overalls that arrived with a collar, no collar and cut into shorts, and offered a breath of fresh air in the middle of all those knee-length and ankle-length coats.
As with all Prada items, this collection is backed by deep, philosophical reflections, which, as usual, the house preferred not to share, leaving us to guess what so many gaberdin coats actually mean.
As a sign of Prada’s unusual appeal, among the visitors were actors Jake Gyllenhaal and Rami Malek, as well as brothers from the Emirates, the Hadban twins, dressed in appropriate attire, as always.
There was also a former Prada model, and now a guest in the front row, actor Jeff Goldblum, who is delighted with the quality of the clothes. “They not only make things that, as you can see, are somehow beautiful and interesting, but they are also comfortable. I mean, I’m not here to do advertising, but I’m telling you – that’s how I honestly feel. “
After almost 40 years in business – he first launched women’s clothing in 1985 and men’s in 1990 – the eponymous designers behind Dolce & Gabbana enjoy searching their own vast archive. As a house, she never liked to look back, but constantly found new ways to describe her codes of Italian heritage. However, a few seasons ago, the couple seemed to notice a treasure trove of ideas they were sitting on, and they started revisiting and reworking them for a new, younger audience.
For spring / summer 2023, his line is called the Re-Edition, which means a lot of baggy clothes from the 1990s, which are considered wide jackets and wide-leg pants with pleats, from materials from shiny brocade to mesh.
Steamy, see-through lace shirts, lots of leather and religious images were woven, while the suits were clean and elegant, and mostly single.
Inside all of that, there was also a reminder of David Beckham, whose famous number 7 kept appearing on vests and T-shirts. There were also plenty of ripped denim jeans and cargo pants, and more denim appeared as fantastic, relaxed wader-style boots.
In recognition of their alter ego as the creator of household necessities, for the Versace men’s show, many models walked the runway with pieces stolen from the store.
Vases were carried under their armpits, and plates hung from their waists like key chains. Elsewhere this would feel like an affectation, but in the house of Versace, whose mantra has always been more, there was a wonderful teasing.
Between the porcelain were coats with monograms, silk pajama pants in bronze and rococo-patterned suits, many of which were picked up from the archives.
In particular, one motif, a drawing of a man’s face, has become a constant theme of the collection, seen on sweatshirts, silk shirts and even a wide suit. The face, it turned out, belonged to someone from Pompeii, a city destroyed in 79 when Vesuvius erupted, burying it under a layer so deep that it was not found again until 1748. In other hands, this could be morbid or creepy, but Versace made it almost celebratory, like a focal point of clothing that jumped from peach over stripes on deckchairs to see-through lemon-yellow jackets. The face appeared in limestone, next to gleaming blue suits and black leather pants with cropped parts.
Updated: June 20, 2022 at 1:56 p.m.